BORUCA

This tribe from the South Pacific Coast of the country are a people with a very rich artistic heritage both historically and in the present day. This tribe, like all of the tribes in Costa Rica, is small, numbering less than 3,000 people. The village of Boruca has 430 people.
The Brunka are most likely the descendants of the creators of the renowned and mysterious stone spheres, the ‘Diquis’ spheres - unique among pre-Hispanic inhabitants of the Americas. Today the Brunka still excel in the arts. Brunka women, since pre-Hispanic times have been weavers of fine, naturally dyed cotton textiles that are made into well crafted woven products: bags, knapsacks, placemats, tablerunners, hats etc. The piece de la resistence among Brunka arts is undoubtedly the ceremonial diablito balsa wood masks (also carved in tropical cedar). The diablito mask is a key element in their annual cultural event, La Danza de los Diablitos, which has been celebrated since time immemorial.

We arrive to Boruca on the 29th of December 2006.The trip is going to last until the 3rd of January.	There is no hot water in the village and some people shower outside.	It is very hot most of the day, though, so cold showers is probably what everyone dreams of anyway. Clothes can be easily dried in the sun too.
This is the lady who cooks meals for our group and lets us eat in her house.	She does not speak any English but she always carries a nice smile for everyone.	This is one of 3 bars in the village that we occasionally visit.
A view from the house.	Dogs are everywhere here belonging to everyone and eating anything they can find. "They are dogs", I am informed, "and will take care of themselves."	It is good to carry soap bubbles with you to break the ice with the local children.
In the evening of the first day, we are listening to old Boruca stories shared with us by the local storyteller.	This is the hike day. We are taking a car up to the mountain where we are supposed to start walking. It seems though, the car refuses to participate and gets a flat.	This is the main bar which turns into a discoteque at night.
Everyone is waiting for the car tyre change to be completed.	And off we go. The view is beautiful.	Pedro is one of the nicest people here in the village. He is also our guide for the hike.
Out of the car finally!	Beautiful nature unfolds in front of us.	This is the burial place for many Boruca Indians from many centuries ago when they were still resisting the Spaniards.
Pedro shares with us some old stories connected with the mountain.	Another stunning view.	This is one of Boruca projects spots. There will be services for visitors here.
Back to the village.	This is one of the nicest views of the village.	A church.
A little store with candy and drinks.	In the evening, the prepations begin for La Danza de los Diablitos, the annual ceremony which lasts 3 days.	A big part of the ceremony is the bull which represents Spanish people trying to conquer the Indians. Here, the bull is being prepared for the fight!
The bull will be fighting with the Boruca Indians for 3 days so it is important it is built tight.	Last year there were complaints about the tourists taking too many photograps from a really close distance.	So this year, there is a special tourist orientation meeting warning visitors against getting too close to ceremony performers. The man with the stick is the village chief, called 'Mayor".
Village is small and there are no paved roads here.	On the first evening after the opening of the ceremony, we all gather at the Mayor's house.	Pedro and his friends.
Some of the participants of the ceremony are already enjoying their masks.	First thing in the morning, we visit some mask workshops.	We listen to stories about masks and how they are made. Julio is our tour guide, a Tico (local word for a Costa Rican).
The masks are really beautiful.	What the heck? Let's have some fun!	Some masks are colourful. The one in the middle is the one I have right now.
The next workshop we visit is the lady who does weaving, another strong Brunca tradition.	Who is that?	The first day of the ceremony is in progress. The bull is attacking the villagers.
And they fight back.	They are making very loud battle sounds and it is a very important feature of the ceremony. It is unfortunate there can't be any sound attached to the photo here.	Another child conquered with soap bubbles.
It seems it works wonders each time. The kids love it.	Welcome to Boruca.	A village stroll.
Another bar next to where I am staying. There are noises and music coming out of it all night.	Dogs here are very independent and roam free. This is the first time I see them chained up.	These traditional pieces are made out of the local fruit. I got one too!
The second day of the ceremony is no different. The battle goes on.	The performers go from one place to another in the village for 6 hours straight, and everyone follows them around.	It is very hot, and they drink a local alcoholic drink 'Chicha' all the time. No wonder some of them lose balance easily.
A beautiful creek and waterfalls in the area.	You can cool off here from the heat.	For the New Years, we gather at the house of the family where we eat. The entire family and our group is here. Costa Ricans welcome the New Years with their families, not in big city plazas like in other countries.
This is the mask I bought.	From a distance, I am observing the battle.	The bull attacks the Indians with no mercy.
When one phase of the battle is over, they all move on to another part of the village.	Someone had too much to drink last night?	And there they are again. 'Mayor' is leading the ceremony.
And here we've got the bull.	As soon as you make your own mask, and if are a Boruca Indian, you can participate. Some masks are very creative.	I am also purchasing few bags. They are cheap here. They could easily double the price.
This is the last day of the ceremony and people dress up in their best outfits and wear their best masks.	The so-called 'shepherd' makes sure everyone in the ceremony does their job.	No time for doddling.
The Indians are very creative with their masks.	The ceremony is also time for partying and drinking. Chicha flows freely around.	The whole village is coming to see the last battle of the ceremony.
The bull will be conquered tonight.	No tourist can pass through.	Some performers dress up as women.
The bull attacks fiercely.	He is bound to lose though eventually.	The battle goes on for 2 hours.
It is very loud and full of energy.	Music sounds accompany the fighters.	The performers move on to circle the village.
In the meantime, one of the guys entertains the visitors dressed up as a dog on the leash.	He grabs people from the audience with aggression.	There are actually not many foreign visitors. Everywhere I look, I see Boruca Indians.
The ceremony is definitely the event of the year.	The 'dog' comes near us.	He suddenly becomes submissive around an older local woman.
This 'Santa Claus' is famous for appearing very unexpectedly in various places of Costa Rica giving away candy to children.	Everyone is drinking heavily during the ceremony.	Someone brings out the rope to eventually tie the bull up when it loses.
For now, though, the bull is still full of life.	Some masks can be bought after the ceremony.	4 local policemen guard the order.
'The Mayor', chieftain of the village.	Battle goes on.	Banana leaves costumes.
The entire area emanates energy.	Costumes are very elaborate.	Wrapped with the commercial tape, snickers on, and drinking beer. Why not?
Some fighters are trying to fit in a small break.	Visitors try to be friendly.	It has been so many hours now, but everyone is still on the field.
The tallest villager, as I was told by himself.	There are many visitors with professional cameras.	These are the last minutes of the bull's life.
Villagers stand together against the attacker.	The whole village came to watch.	Anyone that the bull kills now falls 'dead' on the ground.
First victims begin to fall down.	The battle will go on until after dark.	Someone here had definitely too much to drink.
There are less and less people on the field.	The 'dog'.	Police force in action. Somone needs to be taken out.
The bull has been captivated after dark. I could not take any pictures of that. Here, it is being chopped down to pieces.	Full victory.	A little joke-orders are being taken on the computer of various pieces of the bull.
The moon is full. A nice accent above the village marking the end of the ceremony.	Good bye, Boruca. What a unique, authentic experience that was. And what a way to spend a New Years night! I loved the whole visit! Thank you, Borucan people, for having us and letting us stay observe your sacred ceremony!